S(e)oul Food and Coffee Culture 


Milica Radovanovic

milicaradovanovic96@gmail.com

Introduction


Seoul is a city with a vibrant food and coffee culture, where every neighborhood and street offers unique flavors. More particularly, in South Korea, streets can have distinct themes, such as coffee streets, food streets, or shopping streets, each having something different to offer. While it is often known which neighborhood is trendy, what’s considered “trendy” can change quickly, with new popular areas emerging frequently, reflecting the dynamic nature of Korean food and coffee culture and Seoul as a city. 


This fluid and dynamic nature is evident in how Seoul reimagines its spaces, where trendy restaurants and cafes often emerge in unexpected areas, old and abandoned factories are frequently repurposed into coffee shops, and traditional Korean houses are transformed into vibrant dining hubs. In this way, the streets of Seoul offer a lens through which to explore how the old and new, past and present, tradition and modernity coexist and reshape one another.


In the following sections, key streets and areas will be introduced, with a focus on food culture first, followed by an exploration of coffee culture.

1. S(e)oul Food Culture

Korean cuisine, or hansik, encompasses a wide variety of dishes, with kimchi, consisting of salted and fermented vegetables is commonly regarded as a necessary component at the table. According to Han (2011), while domestic kimchi production has been decreasing, as it is less eaten than in the past, discursive notions of kimchi as the quintessential national food have been increasing. This reflects how a discussion about food often intersects with the narrative of national identity and ‘authenticity’ (Appadurai, 1988; Han, 2011). However, instead of focusing on such narratives, this exploration considers the particularities of Korean food culture, viewing it not as static but as dynamic and evolving.

 

There are various ways and places to explore and experience Korean cuisine, from bustling food streets and traditional markets to street food vendors or late-night street tents, pojangmacha, as it will be shown in the following section.

1-1. Ikseon-dong 


Nestled between the lively districts of Insa-dong and the Royal Jongmyo Shrine, Ikseon-dong offers a blend of old and new, featuring narrow alleys lined with traditional Korean houses that have been transformed into a vibrant hub of diverse restaurants and aesthetic cafés.


By day, Ikseon-dong is filled with activity, offering perfect spots to relax and cafés with stunning views. As night falls, the heart of Ikseon-dong quiets down and its edges come alive instead. The streets light up with the warm glow of red tents—Pojangmacha—where people gather to enjoy street food and drinks. 

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Scenes in Ikseon-dong 

Source: https://english.visitseoul.net.

1-2. Gwangjang Market 


Another great way to experience a variety of foods is by visiting markets like Gwangjang Market. Its name, meaning "to gather from afar and keep altogether," reflects its origins as a small trading hub. Over time, it expanded into a large wholesale market offering a variety of goods, including upholstery, groceries, and traditional items.  The food street, located near the East, North 2, and South 1 Gates, is the market's most popular area, known for its diverse menus and appeal to both locals and international visitors.

Gwangjang Market 

1-3. Mullae-dong


While there might be more popular areas for food choice, one personally interesting spot gaining popularity these days is Mullae-dong. Originally consisting of factories, mostly steel, this area is transforming into a blend of old industrial buildings and new culinary spots. Many of the new bakeries, restaurants, and cafes in the area are located in these old factories, often retaining much of their old look. 

Walking down the streets of Mullae, in a narrow alley, there is one small restaurant called 쉼표말랑, aka Comma Mallang. The main menu centers around 밥상 (bapsang), which refers to a traditional Korean dining table or meal setting. It typically includes a main dish or rice along with various sides dishes or banchan (반찬), such as kimchi, vegetables, soups, and meats. The arrangement of the food reflects features of Korean meal culture, which emphasizes balance, variety, and harmony in both flavor and colors. 


While Korean meal culture is usually set around communal dining, where everyone shares food at the table, in this restaurant, dishes are served separately. Nevertheless, the meals are always made with fresh ingredients, which is why the main menu is constantly changing. The only tricky part is that the restaurant works until 5 pm and is usually busy even on weekdays.



Source: https://english.visitseoul.net.

Scenes of Mullae-dong

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Restaurant "Comma Mallang", photos taken by the author 

2. S(e)oul Coffee Culture


Compared to tea, coffee is a relative newcomer to Korea, having first been imported in the late Joseon Dynasty during the rule of King Gojong. While coffee's history in Korea is relatively short, its influence has been significant, transforming Seoul's streets with vibrant café scenes and diverse coffee offerings.


Seoul's cafés go beyond major chains like Starbucks, offering unique experiences and a dynamic coffee culture. A few popular areas and coffee streets will be introduced in the following section.

2-1. Haebangchon 


After Korea regained its independence, refugees from North Korea fleeing the hardships of the Korean War settled in Haebangchon, which translates to “Liberation Village.” Today, this area is also known for its distinctive cafes, stores, and restaurants.


  • Location: Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (Near Exit 2 of Line 6 Noksapyeong Station)


Haebangchon

2-2. Seongsu-dong café street 


More and more people started visiting Seongsu-dong  after the abandoned factories were renovated into cafes. Today, this area offers diverse cafes with stylish interior designs and eye-catching menus.


  • Location: Seongsu-dong 2-ga, Seongdong-gu, Seoul (Near Exit 3, 4 of Line 2 Seongsu Station) 


Seongsu-dong café street

2-3. Seochon Café street 


Near Gyeongbokgung Palace lies Seochon Café Street, which blends old stores with newly opened cafes, creating a simple and tranquil atmosphere. Walking through the street, one can enjoy the sight of traditional hanok houses and beautiful alleyways. 


  • Location: throughout Nuha-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul (near Exit 1 of line 3 Gyeongbokgung Station)

Seochon Café street, a photo taken by the author

On Seochon café street, there is an old bookstore transformed into a café shop called Daeo Bookstore, known as the oldest bookstore in Seoul. Inside, there are various vintage items and photos, with older Korean songs often playing in the background. The cafe is also famous as the location where singer IU’s album cover was photographed.


  • Location: 55 Jahamun-ro 7gil

Daeo Bookstore